How to Install Vinyl Floors in the Basement - BEFORE/AFTER

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I’m so excited to share some before and afters of the room in my basement! So my house is pretty small, but the basement is HUGE! A lot of the space isn’t usable for rooms per say, but there is this one room that was already there, but just need some love. It had brown paneling, unfinished floors, and old windows.

New Windows

First thing I did was get new windows. The windows were original to the house, and while I love the look of wood windows, I wanted to feel safer in my house, and also have it better insulated. I had a lot of issues with bugs downstairs and just it being really hot, so I think the new windows really makes the room look more finished and in much better shape!

Left: before and after of the window trim being painted, right: how the other windows look on the outside.

Left: before and after of the window trim being painted, right: how the other windows look on the outside.

Paint

Next, I gave everything a fresh coat of paint and cleaned the room. I painted the cinder blocks that were gray to white to match the room and also painted all the brown paneling. I used the same color as upstairs with Behr, Snowy Pine. While the room looked 10x better with fresh paint, it definitely gave off a little bit of a creepy vibe not having the finished floors, so those were next!

Before/after: Painted the paneling, installed the new floors and trim.

Before/after: Painted the paneling, installed the new floors and trim.

Installing Vinyl Floors

So some of you may be intimidated to install flooring yourself, but I promise it really wasn’t so bad. A few things that I did to prepare:

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Supplies

Duralux Signature Hickory - I had a 100 sq ft room so I got 3 boxes

Laminate Flooring Kit

Trim

Shoe Trim

T square (Use for cutting pieces in a straight line)

Cutting mat

Utility knife

Measuring tape

Wood glue or nails for the trim

Caulk

To Prepare

  1. Level the floors - This is only needed if you’re putting Vinyl in the basement and you think the floors aren’t leveled. This is probably only an issue with older houses, but you want to make sure you’re installing the flooring on a flat, level surface.

  2. Clean - I swept any extra debris out of the room and made sure the surface was ready for flooring.

  3. Decide on type of vinyl flooring - There are a lot of different types of vinyl flooring that you can choose from for your home. You can do stick and peel, groutable, floating, and more. I chose the floating option because it has the interlocking pieces and sounded like the best option for my project. Floating vinyl is also waterproof and that was important to me since it was going in the basement.

  4. Buy your supplies - Once you decide on the type of Vinyl flooring, you can do the fun part of picking out a floor! I bought my flooring at Floor & Decor. I got the Duralux floating vinyl in Signature Hickory. It happened to be the cheapest option and my favorite color, so that worked out. You want to make sure you also get 10% more flooring that you need to account for any mess ups or cutting you will be doing. I also bought a flooring kit to help with laying the floors that can be helpful.

  5. Buy trim - I went to Lowe’s for the trim. I got this trim as well as some shoe trim. Since my floor has a good gap between the wall in some places I thought it would look better and cover that space by adding shoe trim, but that is not required.

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How to Install

  1. Start in the farthest corner from door. Make sure your floor will run in the direction of the longest wall. Using the flooring kit, take some tabs and space the floor away from the wall. This is important to allow the floor to have room to expand/contract.

  2. Add the next piece to the end of the first and interlock the pieces together. You can use your hammer or mallet to knock the piece to make sure it’s tightly locked. Continue until you reach the opposite wall.

  3. To start the next row, you’ll want to cut a piece in half to stagger the seams. To do this, take your cutting mat, measure the halfway point and then use a t square to mark that point and use as your ruler. This ensures a straight cut. Take a utility knife and run it a couple times. Then you can pick up the piece and snap it in half.

  4. Continue along laying the floor ensuring that you reinforce the pieces on the long edge and short edge to make sure everything is interlocked tightly. Make sure to completely each row to the other end completely before moving on to another row. It will be hard to go back and add pieces if you do not.

  5. Continue on until you’ve completed the whole room!

  6. At the door, you’ll want to install a reducer to go from vinyl fo the sub floor if they are different heights. I found a matching color and cut it to size of the door frame.

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HOW TO: DIY Farmhouse Shutters for $150

diy, diy shutters, farmhouse shutters, white house, cheap shutters, shutter project

Hi Friends!

This week we’re talking about my new shutters! These shutters turned out so good, and can’t wait to share how I did it. Not to mention I was able to do 4 windows (so 8 shutters) for only $150! So if you’re looking for an affordable DIY project to up the value of your house this is the one! My old shutters were not made properly by the previous owners. They were falling off the house and rotting by the day so I went ahead and decided to make these new ones that are much sturdier and professional looking! So here we go read on to see how I did it.

QUICK TIP: You can buy a Lowe’s coupon to save $20 off $100 on Ebay and save even more! Just search Lowe’s coupon on Ebay!

Materials

  • 12 - 1x4 treated pine boards @10ft (This is based on my window height, so may vary based on window)

  • 4 - 1x2 treated pine boards (for the cross piece)

  • 3” Wood screws

  • 1 ½” Wood screws

  • 1 ¼” Kreg Jig screws

  • 7/64 wood drill bit

  • Valspar Solid Stain

  • Wood filler

Tools

  • Drill

  • Kreg Jig (I used this one)

  • Electric Sander and sandpaper (rough grit)

  • Circular Saw

  • Wood clamps

  • Measuring tape


Note: This is the back side of the boards as you can see I wanted the black and nasty part of the board to be on the back side of the shutter.

Note: This is the back side of the boards as you can see I wanted the black and nasty part of the board to be on the back side of the shutter.

Step One

When choosing your wood, make sure you lay it on the ground and get pieces that are not warped. Make sure they lay relatively flat. The straighter and flatter they are, the cleaner and more lined up they will be when you screw them together. I then laid all the boards out with the back side facing me, and chose the order in which I wanted the boards to be and line up, so they looked best on the front side.

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Step Two

Drill your pocket holes using the Kreg Jig drill attachment. I put the wood on the saw horses and used some wood clamps to help secure the Kreg Jig. I chose to do 3 different pocket holes on each board to add extra security. Make sure to measure equidistance between each pocket hole. Once you’ve drilled all the pocket holes, take your 1 ¼” kreg jigs screws and screw each board together and you should end up with something like this.

NOTE: There is no need to add pocket holes to the last board unless you want added security.

NOTE: There is no need to add pocket holes to the last board unless you want added security.

Step Three

Cut the boards down to size. It’s best to wait until you have them all screwed together because it will ensure that you will have a straight line with all three boards. My windows were 42” tall, but be sure to measure your own windows and cut to size.

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Step Four

Sand the front and back of the boards until smooth. Depending on the grit of sandpaper, if your boards are perfectly matched up, now is the time to sand the joints, so they are smooth.

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Step Five

Cut down the 1x2s to the size of the shutters. I used two each, but you can also do 3 if you like. It’s also up to you where you want them, so just lay them out and measure to find the perfect spot. Mine were 9” from the edge. We pre-drilled three holes, so it it easier to get the wood screws in.

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Step Six

Then screw in the board from the back, so that you can hide the screws. You can also use a nail gun, but I thought this was more secure. You can also see I lined up the boards to the pencil mark measurements to make sure we stayed straight and even.

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Step Seven

Time to paint! I used Valspar Solid Stain to ensure that I got a solid color that would hold up outside in Sherwin Williams “Windstorm” from Lowe’s. Be sure to do 2 coats and also paint the back to seal the wood.

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Step Eight

Last step is to put up the shutters! We used the 3” wood screws and pre-drilled holes for them so they we’re easier to put up! Make sure you sink the screws slightly so that you can fill in the wholes. Once they are up sand just the spot where you screwed them in, and fill them in with wood filler. Once dry paint over the spots and you’re DONE!



diy, diy shutters, farmhouse shutters, white house, cheap shutters, shutter project


FREE Printable Recipe Cards

Free Printable Recipe Cards

If you’re like me, you don’t trust computers. I always wonder 20 years from now if things like Pinterest will be around. Or the blogs that have all your favorite recipes!? What if they delete their blog or take it down? I will no longer have that recipe! So I went to Pinterest to try and find some cute recipe cards I could print out at home, and I did not like a single one. They were all too “cute” if you know what I mean. I wanted something classic that I would never look at and not like. So I made my own! These ones are simple and easy to use! They’re straight to the point and I think may be useful to you guys! I’ve created a tab version if you like to be organized like me, but if not there’s also a non tab version! So scroll to the bottom of the post to download the cards! I recommend printing on cardstock and trim on the dotted lines.

Printable Recipe Cards